India is famous for many things, and one of the most notable ones includes its jewelry. Indian jewelry is famous across the globe for its intricate design, skilled craftsmanship, and traditional look.
However, one of the most notable things about Indian jewelry is its variety. Craftsmen from India design jewelry in many types, and one of them includes Polki. This jewelry style from India comes with a touch of opulence, making it famous across the globe.
In this blog, we will deep dive into the world of Polki jewelry. We will break down everything, starting from its history to the manufacturing process. So, if you are a jewelry lover like we are, then keep on reading.
Key Takeaway:
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Polki jewelry is one of the oldest and most regal jewelry forms from India.
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Polki jewelry is from the Mughal era and perfected by Rajasthani and Gujarati craftsmen.
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Polki jewelry is created by skilled craftsmen with years of experience.
What is Polki and Its History?
Polki jewelry is famous across the globe for its intricate work of art. However, only a few know that these pieces come with a deep history. Let us walk you through these jewelry pieces for your understanding.
What is Polki?
Polki jewelry originated in the Mughal era around the 16th to 17th century. This is a traditional Indian jewelry form featuring raw, uncut, and unpolished diamonds in a gold setting.
Unlike modern, machine-cut diamonds, Polki diamonds are natural, mined diamonds that retain their original, organic shape and character. These are rarely set with prongs; instead, the Jadau method is used for this jewelry. In this method, gold is softened, and the stone is embedded into it to create a seamless, polished, and secure finish.
The uncut diamonds in Polki are set on a backing of gold foil to enhance their luster and shine. This gives a unique and regal glow, helping it become a heritage and heirloom piece.
What is Polki Jewelry History?
Polki originated in the Mughal Empire between the 16th and 18th centuries. The pieces represented one of the oldest forms of diamond jewelry and were exclusively worn by royalty and high-ranking nobility.
Later on, Rajput craftsmen started to adapt to this style of jewelry, and Polki started to appear in the collections of Rajput kings and queens as a symbol of luxury and power.
As time went on, Polki started to incorporate traditional craftsmanship featuring the Jadau technique, in which goldsmiths from Rajasthan and Gujarat, with generations worth of experience, perfected the jewelry style.
How is Polki Jewelry Made?
Polki jewelry looks exquisite, just like a work of art. And one thing that is responsible for it is the design process. Polki jewelry demands extraordinary talent, seasoned craftsmanship, and precise determination.
Here’s how a Polki piece is often created:
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Designing the Base
The first step of the process includes creating the base, and it includes the use of high-karat gold in the case of real jewelry and brass or other material in the case of gold-plated variants.
Skilled craftsmen focus on creating designs by mixing modern and traditional elements. Selecting and perfecting the design is essential to ensure the beauty of the Polki necklace set or bangles is showcased appropriately.
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Sourcing the Diamonds
Uncut diamonds are the star of Polki jewelry, which is why seasoned craftsmen focus on using the best diamonds. The raw state of these diamonds helps in highlighting their natural brilliance and making the jewelry iconic. This is why there is a special focus on using premium quality diamonds that meet the highest standards of quality.
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Kundan Setting
Skilled craftsmen focus on the Kundan setting. Kundan Polki jewelry is a hallmark technique where the diamond is set onto a gold frame. A thin sheet of pure gold foil is placed behind the stone to reflect light and increase brightness.
Next, the diamonds are secured properly to ensure they will shine bright and be in their place. After that, experts fill lac, natural resin, or glue in the space behind the diamond to secure the stone further.
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Meenkari Work
Meenakari or enameling is a classic Indian traditional jewelry technique. This is quite a common choice for decorating the back of Polki jewelry and adds colorful depth to the jewelry.
In this jewelry technique, craftsmen paint the gold base with colorful and detailed patterns. This is how craftsmen make sure even the backside of the jewelry looks exquisite.
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Finishing
In the final step, the piece of jewelry is carefully polished by skilled craftsmen to make sure the pieces look and shine the brightest. Then jewelry designers combine the piece of jewelry with pearls, emeralds, or rubies to complete the traditional look.
This entire process demands precision. It is meticulously handcrafted by seasoned craftsmen who ensure each piece is unique and is worthy of being an heirloom.
How has Polki Evolved through the Decades?
Polki dates back centuries, holding a rich history. However, this jewelry style has evolved a lot through the ages. Although it started as a royal, intricate piece in the first place has now become a staple in contemporary bridal trousseau as well.
This is how Polki diamond jewelry has evolved throughout the years:
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Royal Age (16th to 19th Century)
Polki jewelry was introduced by the Mughal rulers but perfected by Rajasthani artisans. The design of this jewelry included heavy, intricate jewelry pieces that featured double-sided designs, detailed Meenakari on the back side.
As soon as this style of jewelry, like Polki bangles, was introduced, it became a popular piece among the royals. This became a rigid symbol of power and wealth, exclusively worn by royalty and the elite to display their social status.
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Colonial Age (19th to Early 20th Century)
Polki began to rapidly transform during the British Raj. It is during this time that the Indian Polki design started to incorporate European designs as well. This creates a nice blend of traditional Indian craftsmanship with western-inspired motifs.
During this time, the use of silver-topped gold settings became popular and started to show up in the jewelry collection of British rulers. Polki choker style necklace started becoming popular, which blends silver and traditional Jadau techniques created unique pieces that showcase opulence.
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Post-Independence Era (Mid to Late 20th Century)
The post-independence era saw a decline in the popularity of Polki. Western tastes and minimalistic designs started to dominate the market and became popular among the elites of the era.
However, in the late 20th century, there was a sudden resurgence of Polki jewelry. The royals and elites of India were the biggest reasons that led to the resurgence of the Polki jewelry. This placed Indian heritage and craftsmanship back in the spotlight and made Polki popular all over again.
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Modernization Era (2000s to 2010s)
During the 2000s, Polki started to become a must-have for Indian brides. This almost became a symbol of Polki re-cementing its position as a cultural staple.
Designers began making Polki jewelry in a lighter and more affordable variety to make it more widespread for brides. This also helped Polki to be worn on occasions other than weddings.
Other than that, the use of gemstones like emeralds, rubies, and pearls also became popular in Polki jewelry. This moved beyond the traditional white and gold look and helped in adding some vibrancy.
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Present Day Stages
Polki jewelry, which is worn by today’s contemporary brides, goes with both ethnic and Western outfits. Now, artists focus on many different techniques, one of which includes the Open Polki or Vilandi technique. This involved leaving the back of the stone exposed, allowing for more light and a brighter look.
Modern consumers are favoring Polki for its "sustainable luxury" appeal. The uncut stones require less energy to process compared to polished, machine-cut diamonds.
What are Some of the Types of Polki Jewelry?
Polki jewelry is an antique, royal aesthetic piece famous for its opulent look. This is often available in a wide range of variation including the following:
1. Jadau Polki
This is an ancient technique where Polki diamonds are pressed into heated gold. This creates a seamless, durable, and highly prized piece, popular among the royals.
2. Bikaneri Setting
This style of Polki includes a traditional Rajasthani method using a gold foil base. This maximizes the diamond's brilliance and makes it look more luxurious. The Bikaneri setting is also combined with Meenakari on the back for a colorful look.
3. Open Setting
This style is also known as Vilandi and has recently gained a lot of popularity among contemporary brides. The back of the diamond is left open, which allows light to pass through for a brighter, more contemporary, and radiant finish.
4. Thappa Polki
This style of Polki jewelry uses a metal sheet or thappa to cover the stone. This provides high durability while securing the diamond.
Types of Polki Diamonds
Polki diamonds may all look the same. However, they come in a huge variety. Some of the different types include:
1. Syndicate Polki
This is the highest quality Polki diamond, which is known for superior clarity. This is often used in premium, modern, traditional, or fusion jewelry, common among royalty and the elite.
2. Zimbabwe Polki
This is high-quality stones sourced from Zimbabwe that feature a flat bottom and a faceted dome.
3. Kilwas Polki
This is comparatively a lower-quality, thinner type of Polki with a flat bottom and dome-shaped top.
Common jewelry styles of Polki are commonly used in, but not limited to, heavy Bridal Sets, Chokers, Earrings (Jhumkas and Studs), and Statement Rings.
Add Opulence to Your Look With the Help of Polki Jewelry!
Throughout the decades and centuries, Polki diamond necklace and other jewelry have made their place in the world of jewelry. This style of jewelry is the sign of opulence and heritage, and each piece showcases intricate details, worthy of becoming an heirloom piece.
So, if you are looking to add Polki jewelry pieces to your collection, then explore the options that we offer.
